Tuesday, July 15, 2025
What I Wore in France: My Handmade French Capsule Wardrobe
Friday, July 5, 2024
True Bias Darla Jumpsuit Review
Do you ever see a sneak peek of an upcoming pattern and start drooling? That's what happened to me when I saw the True Bias Darla Jumpsuit and Dress on Instagram. That back! So strappy and fun!
This garment took me forever to sew. The pattern came out right before we had to temporarily move into an AirBnb due to a tree fall on our home. I decided it would be a good project to take with me, so I started sewing it there. But then I needed my serger too. And then my dog died. And then a general depression took over my life and I stopped sewing.
It took me a month to get back to Darla. Per usual, an upcoming event pushed me to finish it. Nothing crazy, just a planned date night. And once she was done, oh my...I LOVE it!
The fabric I used is making me scratch my head. I THINK that it's the black version of the pink Lyocell/rayon/linen/cotton I used for this Willamette Top. I distinctly remember making a special trip to a different Jo-Ann's to get it. I have the receipt. But the receipt does NOT say that's what it is. It's a similar weight and it does have a slight shine with pressing, so it's unlikely that it's 100% linen or cotton. Anyway, it's very soft, slightly drapey, and lightweight. I like it a lot and it gathered well. The bodice is fully lined (as well as interfaced at the top) and I think that my fabric needed that extra support.
I made a size 2 top and a size 8 bottoms. It is extremely easy to mix sizes top and bottom, because the back is gathered with elastic (or just gathered into the back bodice if you use the zip up view) and the front pant (or skirt) is gathered into the bodice as well. I ended up shortening the back elastic quite a bit but that could be personal preference.
The instructions are excellent and there is a sew along if you need more help. The only part that confused me was the back elastic casing. Sometimes you fold the casing completely inside and sometimes it's visible from the outside...I couldn't tell which I was supposed to do. I checked the sew along and noticed that the print for the casing was different than the back pant/skirt and therefore was visible from outside.
If you make the strappy back view, everything lines up super neatly and is nicely enclosed. There is stitching in the ditch, which I hate, but you could also secure the bodice lining by hand if you weren't in the hurry that I was.
The pockets are in-seam but are constructed so that they sit inside the pant better than regular inseam pockets. They are also secured at the waistline so they do not sag.
I did feel like my pants were too short when it came time to hem. I probably cut them wonky because I'm not that tall (5'4") but maybe double check the inseam. I ended up adding a wide 2" cuff to each pant hem. It gives them a bit more weight and swish and I'm not mad at it. Especially in black because you can barely tell.
I can't believe this pattern isn't more popular. I have to believe that the back discourages regular bra-wearing and that throws people off. I tried it without a bra and if the bodice fits well (mine did) it gave a decent enough amount of lift. Again, mine being black hides a lot. In these photos, I'm wearing a stick on bra from Amazon, which worked fine as long as I also kept the straps pretty tight.
I definitely want to make the dress version of this pattern, probably in a rayon woven.
HIGHLY recommend you pick up Darla and make yourself some swishy goodness!
Thursday, April 18, 2024
Handmade Three Piece Linen Suit
Some projects stay in your brain for a long time, and I have a feeling this one will. So, let's give it a blog post shall we?
The inspiration for this project started with the fabric. I have been wanting to make a linen blazer for a while, but the right fabric hasn't come along. Then I started working with Karleen at Sewing Studio (you may know them as PDX Sewing Studio, but they have since moved out of Portland, therefore dropping the PDX). I placed an order and asked her to throw in anything she'd like me to promote.
When I started cutting out the Heather Blazer (previously made here) I began to wonder if I could get a pair of shorts from my leftovers. Fabric Tetris netted me a pair of Deer & Doe Genet Shorts. I did have to use a scrap of linen for one waistband facing and piece a bit of the pockets, but I made it work.
The lining I used for both the shorts and blazer was a poly crepe from Jo-Ann's. I had bought it to test the Pleats and Thank You Jumpsuit, but they had to give me the yardage in two pieces and I couldn't make it work. So, I was VERY happy to find a purpose for a portion of three yards of poly crepe.
I'm a pretty advanced sewist but jackets are complicated, and I appreciate good directions. The Heather directions are fantastic, and matching the lining and turning it all out is easy to follow.
I also enjoyed making the Genet Shorts! It's been some time since I made a Deer & Doe pattern (maybe I've only made the free Plantain Tee) but their directions were good as well. I did end up cutting a size slightly smaller than the chart and letting it out over the hips. I would rather do that than end up with too-big pleated pants.
After I finished my two pieces, I realized that Pattern Review was running a Matchy Matchy contest. Well, isn't that just convenient! However, the rules stipulated that you could not photograph a suit jacket in a way that you could see a different fabric underneath. Okay. My choices were to either button it up and pretend I didn't have a shirt on, to actually not have a shirt on, or to make some sort of top from the same fabric.
I got the wild idea to see what I could do with my scraps. I had literally thrown them into the trash because there was so little fabric left. Most of what I pulled out were long strips straight down the grain. I started piecing them together and realized I could make a Jasmine Bra.
Things got wild after that, I made it work whatever way I could. I lined it with cut and sew bra foam and then bound the upper edges. I made straps and an underband.
I have never made a quilt before, and piecing strips to create a final piece was new to me. I get it now. It's so rewarding! Of course, I was using something that would otherwise be trash, so I'm sure that had something to do with my satisfaction.
My three piece set has been entered into the Pattern Review contest. Voting runs April 18th-27th. If you are a member over there, I would love it if you would vote for me!
I received the linen fabric for free in exchange for review. I am a freelancer for Sewing Studio. All opinions are my own.
Tuesday, March 19, 2024
Content Creation for Sewing Brands
A bit of a change in this post, with some sewing-adjacent news! If you are a content creator, fabric shop, or pattern company, it can be a hamster wheel to bring new STUFF to the world all the time. I work with clients to take the burden off, but not everyone has that kind of budget to put into their business. So, I wrote my newest e-book!
1 Garment, 10 Pieces of Content gives you ideas for turning 1 garment into 10 posts/videos/emails/etc. It includes a shot list (so you know exactly which photos to take WHILE sewing, not after!) and a checklist. These techniques are exactly the ones I use when I plan content and marketing with clients
- No working backwards after a project is done
- Content creation will be much faster
- See the creative aspect of making content, removing all the dread
Grab the e-book today in my shop. If you're interested in chatting about my marketing services, you can find out about my no-commitment Discovery Call here.
And if you struggle with other marketing tasks, leave a comment and let me know. There could be another low-cost e-book in the future!
Wednesday, February 28, 2024
How to Chainstitch with a Coverstich Sewing Machine
Mind. Blown.
That's how I felt when I FINALLY got around to trying this sewing technique. I'm not joking when I say I've had this Safari window open on my phone for at least six months (anyone else a serial non-window-closer?). And what window was that, you ask?
The pdf manual for my Brother 2340CV. Wowwwww exciting right. I don't remember why, but I was looking in the manual for something one day and saw, right there, instructions for chainstitching. What? Are you serious? I thought chainstitching required a special machine?
Special machines DO exist, but it turns out that I can replicate it on my coverstitch. And it's super easy. If you don't have the exact machine that I do, check your manual!
The Brother 2340CV is a three-needle coverstitch, with the fourth needle being the lower looper. To make the chainstitch, you remove the left and right needles and use only the center needle and lower looper. Set the tension settings to 0 for the two needles you removed. Set the needle tension to 2 and the lower looper tension to 5.
Then sew.
That's it! I was blown away when I saw how easy it was. No fiddling at all. I grabbed a piece of stretch denim, folded it over to mimic a hem, and it worked perfectly.
Then I grabbed a four month old pair of unhemmed jeans and hemmed them. Also worked perfectly!
Supposedly a chainstitch can also make a great basting stitch, as it is meant to unravel when it becomes unsecured. I didn't try it because I didn't want to pull any of my pretty stitches out.
Are you going to try this trick? Or, are you on the fence about a coverstitch and need just one more reason to get one (dooooo it)?
If you'd like to see this technique in action, check out my Reel on Instagram!
Wednesday, February 21, 2024
Cupro Scuba Double Knit Top
There is no better feeling than a successful RTW hack. I LOVE being inspired by things I see online and using my pattern knowledge to come up with a copy.
I used this Spanx Air Essentials turtleneck tunic as inspiration for my top. Why was I browsing at Spanx do you ask? Well, I've recently started freelancing with Kayla at Surge Fabric Shop. She was bringing in a new fabric that was meant to duplicate the Spanx Air Essentials line. Tessa, at Love Notions, had asked all the fabric shops she knew to find her a similar fabric, and after more than a year of searching, Kayla delivered.
Kayla sent me two yards to make a sample garment. Out of all the Air Essentials items I loved the turtleneck the most. To create my duplicate, I used the Hey June Halifax Hoodie as a base, because it has that boxy shape with a dropped shoulder. I laid the bodice pattern pieces on top of the bodice for the Nikko Top (True Bias) and blended them together at the neckline. Luckily, both patterns have the same seam allowance so it wasn't too difficult.
I omitted the sleeve cuff and instead extended the length of the sleeve. I cut 2 1/2" off the bodice and then added the tunic panels at the bottom. They are roughly 7" tall and the same width as the bodice.
This was a quick sew, except that I had to cut the turtleneck part three times because I kept messing up. The first time I sewed it wrong sides together, and the second time I cut the stretch the wrong way. This fabric does have only minimal stretch in the length so you have to pay attention.
I wore this all day last week and it was SO soft and comfy. It resisted wrinkles like a champ, and dare I say it would make a great travel outfit. There is a matte and shiny side (I used the matte). You could use the shinier side for your own lovely cupro double knit dress (like Tessa's).
For more info on this fabric, you can read Kayla's blog post or watch Tessa's YouTube video. Make sure to grab some of this fabric for yourself over at Surge.
I received this fabric for free and am paid as a digital marketer for Surge Fabric Shop. I was not asked to write this blog post but I received the fabric for free. Both patterns were purchased by myself. All opinions are my own!
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